Vinas del Jaro
From my research I knew that the vineyards of this estate were very near a "very prestigious" producer in the Ribera del Duero but, as it turns out, vineyards of the "other" producer (Vega Sicilia) are actually right next to the Vinas del Jaro vineyards. The rest of the neighborhood is pretty good too as Peter Sisseck's Hacienda Monasterio vineyards are on the other side of the Vinas de Jaro estate.
These vineyards are of course in the "golden mile" of Ribera del Duero vineyards on a perfectly situated south facing hill which adds a huge amount of depth and complexity to their wines. While on one hand this estate does produce the traditional range of Spanish wines (Joven, Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva), effectively all of the wines benefit from the overall "Grand Cru" location of where the estate is located.
Within the estate, there is also a "single vineyard" site (Chafandin) that has quite a history as the 2003 "Reserva" wine sourced entirely from this parcel was awarded the "Champion Red Wine" prize in 2006 during the very prestigious London International Wine Challenge. The estate's Gran Reserva wine, Sed de Cana, is only made in truly exceptional years from a special selection of grapes from the same Chafandin parcel.
In an era of "celebrity winemakers" and "designer wines" concocted for the known preferences of "prestigious wine critics" to get inflated rating scores, this estate also prefers to be very private and keep as low a profile as possible. In fact, the estate does not even list an address for its location or is there even a sign identifying the estate on the road where it is located. But, inside the property, it is all business. Alvaro, the estate manager and head winemaker, is my type of favorite wine maker as he walks around with mud and dust encrusted boots indicating how much time he spends in the vineyards.
Outside in the rolling undulations of the vineyards, Alvaro also knows the flavor characteristics of every block on the estate. Inside the cellar, his encyclopedic knowledge and precision are on display. Barrel tasting was a huge treat and very informative as in that setting Alvaro appeared to have the insight of a Grand Master chess player being able to see well into the future about how all the barrels were going to develop and what wines he could then make out of all the barrels.
What I saw in my opinion is winemaking at its finest which is respecting the grapes and understanding their potential. Each wine produced also feels like a natural extension of the vineyards where the grapes were grown without any additional "intervention" to affect flavor profiles. The end result across the range of wines are very delightful food friendly wines with great balance and which will be described in more detail in the wine descriptions below.
A map of the estate
Looking down to the Douro in early-May. Tempranillo buds late but matures early (temprano!)
Chafandin block starting to bud
Looking back up through the vineyards to the ridge
Many different types of fermentation tanks for single block vinification
My hosts, Alberto and Alvaro
Sembro is the "Joven" in their range of wines but it is essentially a rarity in that it is produced from a Grand Cru vineyard site. This is similar to top Burgundy producers who also may produce a "Bourgogne Rouge" but where a lot of the fruit is from the same producer's Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards.
Aromas include dark cherries, dark plums, and dark chocolate along with interesting aromatics of a freshly baked rich chocolate dessert with chocolate sauce. Flavors include rich plums, nectarines, dark cherries, and red peaches. There is smooth medium body, good balance and acidity, and a rich smooth finish.
Food pairings are versatile and would include short ribs, veal chops, lamb chops, roast pork, pork shoulder, duck, grilled chicken, paella, shrimp, branzino, seafood soups and pasta dishes, Asian and Mexican beef and pork dishes, charcuterie, and medium to hard cheeses.
Jaros is essentially the "Crianza" in their range of wines but Vinas del Jaro prefers not to adhere to formulas and will vinifiy and mature every vintage differently. The estate's understanding of their own wines is also remarkable as although the Sembro had amazing complexity for a Joven, the Jaros definitely is more structured and provides more delightful nuances.
Aromas include dark cherries, dark plums, dark cocoa, nectarines, and blackberries. Flavors include rich dark chocolate, blackberries, boysenberries, and dark cherries. There is a rich smooth progression across the palate, perfect balance and acidity, and a lingering full finish. Hidden behind the rich fruit of the wine are some interesting tannins that provide structure and which will ensure that the wine ages well and will provide ever increasing complexity.
Food pairings would include Filet Mignon, New York Steak, Roast Beef, short ribs, lamb chops, roast pork, grilled chicken, duck, elk, paella, salmon, tuna, Asian beef and pork stir frys, Indian Tandoori dishes, Mexican pork and chicken dishes, pasta with meat sauce, charcuterie, and rich and hard cheeses.
Chafandin is their "Reserva" and which is only sourced from a very small portion of the overall vineyards in the individual Chafandin block. The terrain in the block is also notable as it has similar convex contours to many of the Grand Cru parcels in Burgundy.
There is a very complex set of aromas including sweet smoke (from delicious sweetly smoked meats), caramel, violets, mild cherries, and blackberries. There are rich deep flavors of tart cherries, blueberries, blackberries, almonds, and a hint of mocha. The flavors are complemented by sweet silky tannins, perfect balance, and a medium mouthfeel. The entire combination of aromas and flavors is pretty amazing as every sip fills your senses with a delightful perfume along with a memorable finish having some port like hints.
The complex flavors then result in incredible versatility in food pairings which would include filet mignon, veal chops, veal stew, rack of lamb, salmon, swordfish, grilled shrimp and other grilled fish, fish stews, duck, venison, elk, pork shoulder, grilled chicken, sausages, charcuterie, paella, jambalaya, ratatouille, Mexican food, grilled vegetables, Asian vegetable dishes, creamy curries, sautéed mushrooms, and soft cheeses.
Sed de Cana 2014
Sed de Cana is the "Gran Reserva" of the estate and is only made in exceptional years. Grapes are exclusively from older vines in the Chafandin block and only perfect clusters are selected. The wine is matured in oak barrels for at least two years and then further matured in concrete eggs to provide even more concentrated flavors.
Aromas include dark cherries, violets, old roses, blackberries, and hints of tobacco, cedar, and rich balsamic notes. The concentrated deep flavors of dark cherries, plums, and blackberries are accompanied by refreshing minerality from the very deep roots of the older vines. This is another perfectly balanced wine but whose depth and complexity then results in a very long and memorable finish.
The richness and complexity results in impressive food pairings which include filet mignon, New York steak, Rib Eye, Roast Beef, short ribs, veal chops, rack of lamb, lamb chops, swordfish, duck, goose, elk, roast pork, roasted chicken, sausages, charcuterie, paella, jambalaya, grilled vegetables, Asian beef and pork dishes, and aged cheeses.