In my ongoing search for very popular and high quality "local wineries" in each region, Weingut Muller was a delightful find. In addition to meeting a very nice family which has had vineyards in the Kremstal area for generations, I also found an extremely impressive and very modern state of the art winery that was effectively not even noticeable behind a street front of old buildings in the small village of Krustetten.
In what is unfortunately now an overly complex debate about the "authenticity" and "natural" qualities of how wine is currently produced, I have my own point of view that authenticity is enhanced by preserving the natural expressiveness of each grape varietal. In visits to wineries all over Europe I find such expressiveness from wineries with state of the art temperature controlled fermentation tanks which also preserve the freshness of the fruit. Although it may seem charming to visit older wineries still using old foudres and tanks from 50 to 100 years ago, in my own experience, they are no longer producing wines of consistent quality and which are interesting to drink.
And so, with the Muller's ongoing investment in the best equipment possible, I found very expressive and precise wines. Although the Muller family founded their winery in 1936, with the purchase of just one vineyard in the area, their astute knowledge of the local vineyards have now resulted in owning many prime vineyard parcels in the area, including vineyard sites originally planted between 600 and 800 years ago. As they say about the three most important things in real estate in general being location, location, and location, prime original vineyard sites first identified and planted long ago for their recognized characteristics and potential to produce great wines still produce great wines to this day.
Ancient Kremstal terraced vineyards
Ried Neuberg vineyard
Small batch fermentation tanks for very expressive wines (and a pristine winery too!)
Gottweiler Berg vineyard
I love the decoration of the wood aging barrels
Müller “Göttweiger Berg” Riesling 2020
Aromas include honeysuckle, jasmine, narcissus, white flowers, gardenia, yellow roses, and white grapefruit. Flavors include ripe honeydew melon, white grapefruit, cantaloupe, kiwi, star fruit, and hints of pear. There is a medium body, good balance and acidity, and a saturated minerally finish.
Food pairings would include shrimp, crab, sole, scallops, halibut, swordfish, lobster, seafood salads and pasta, veal, pork, chicken, Asian pork, chicken, seafood, vegetable, and noodle dishes, spring rolls, Mexican pork and chicken dishes, fish tacos, chile verde, grilled sausages, and mild, medium, creamy, and rich cheeses.
Muller Ried Neuberg Grüner Veltliner 2020
Aromas include camellia, honeysuckle, jasmine, hibiscus, pineapple, kiwi, and starfruit. Flavors include green apple, pineapple, Meyer Lemon, white grapefruit, and cherries. There is a medium body, perfect balance and acidity, and rich, full, minerally finish.
Food pairings would include shrimp, crab, red snapper, swordfish, tuna, clams, mussels, seafood soups, pasta, and salads, veal, pork, chicken, Asian pork, chicken, seafood, and noodle dishes, Asian vegetable salads, sesame noodles, Mexican pork and chicken dishes, tacos, tostadas, Indian yellow curries, green salads, and mild and medium cheeses.
Müller “Göttweiger Berg” Grüner Veltliner 2020 (1 Liter)
Aromas include honeysuckle, jasmine, white flowers, cherry blossoms, pineapple, and honeydew melon. Flavors include pear, green apple, white peaches, honeydew melon, and mild hints of lemon. There is a fully saturated medium body, good balance and acidity, and a lush, fully saturated, and refreshing minerally finish.
Food pairings would include shrimp, crab, clams, mussels, scallops, halibut, seabass, swordfish, calamari, seafood pasta, salads, and soups, veal, pork, chicken, coq au vin, cassoulet, paella, Asian seafood, pork, chicken, noodle, and vegetable dishes, creamy yellow curries, tikka masala, Indian appetizers, Mexican pork and chicken dishes, enchiladas, taco salads, charcuterie, and mild to medium cheeses.
Müller “Göttweiger Berg” Zweigelt 2020 (1 Liter)
Aromas include red plums, dark cherries, blackberries, ripe strawberries, and hints of caramel. Flavors include blackberries, plum, dark cherries, and hints of strawberries. There is a medium to full body, good balance and acidity, and a full, refreshing, and minerally finish.
Food pairings would include beef stew, short ribs, veal chops, pork chops, BBQ ribs and chicken, burgers, cassoulet, coq au vin, jambalaya, pasta with meat sauce, lasagna, pizza, Asian beef, pork, and chicken dishes, Mexican beef and pork dishes, beef tamales, Indian lamb curries, Indian Tandoori dishes, grilled sausages, charcuterie, and mild, medium, rich, and creamy cheeses.