In my search for interesting and expressive wines, things can get a little complicated in various regions. Beaujolais red wines (there are whites too) are made from Gamay, which is typically regarded as "light and fruity." Such a perception about the region is then further exacerbated by the Beaujolais Nouveau wines that are released in mid-November each year after only a brief fermentation and no further maturation and those wines take the concept of light and fruity to a silly extreme. Although I respect wine drinkers who may like these wines, for me "light and fruity" does not result in wines that are interesting and expressive.
Beneath the overall perception of light and fruity wines from the region, the northern parts of the region are marked by large hills comprised of granite and vineyards in those areas can produce much more substantial and interesting wines. But, in an industry where "commercial considerations" often are more important than making interesting and authentic wines, even producers with such better areas for making interesting wines will still default to making light and fruity wines as that's what they think that consumers expect.
And so, my search for a possible Beaujolais supplier took quite a while to sort through wineries that were not making interesting wines and which all pretty much tasted the same and then finding the delightful and expressive wines of Renaud Bodillard in Villie-Morgon. The winery has smaller parcels of vines in seven villages in the northern part of Beaujolais and the individual parcels had been selected for their potential expressiveness from the granite and schist soils that can be found in the hills in the area. Renaud is now in the fifth generation of the family that started the Domaine and he continues the tradition of always producing authentic wines.
These are true artisanal wines as well from the extensive manual work in the vineyards and the careful harvesting by hand each year. The wine making is also artisanal as the individual lots of grapes from separate parcels are all vinified separately and according to the characteristics of the grapes each year and you can taste such care in the expressiveness of the wines. My initial selections from the Domaine are a special cuvee called 3B from the Les Seves parcel east of Villie-Morgon, a Morgon from the Corcelette parcel, and a Saint-Veran from north of Beaujolais. The Saint-Veran parcel also shows the Domaine's astute choice of vineyard parcels as it is located only 100 yards from the dividing line between Saint-Veran and Pouilly-Fuisse, whose wines are much more expensive.
The hills around Morgon in winter
Saint-Veran d'En Faux 2020 (OF, NF)
Saint-Veran is a region within the Maconnais section of Burgundy and is always made from Chardonnay, and so it is always considered a White Burgundy.
Beaujolais Les Seves Cuvee 3B 2017 (OC, NF)
Les Seves is a parcel of older vines slightly to the east of Villie-Morgon. Aromas include dark cherries, dark plums, nectarines, ripe strawberries, and hints of berries such as blueberries and boysenberries. Flavors include dark cherries, blackberries, and dark plums. There is a medium body, perfect balance and acidity, and a saturated and lingering finish.
Food pairings would include Filet Mignon, short ribs, beef stew, veal and pork cutlets, veal stew, pork tenderloin, roast chicken, coq au vin, salmon, clams, calamari, paella, tapas, Asian beef, pork, and chicken dishes, lamb curries, Mexican beef and pork dishes, charcuterie, and mild, medium, and creamy cheeses.
Morgon Corcelette Cuvee Thaddeus 2017 (OC, NF)
Morgon is one of the ten Beaujolais "crus" that have long been recognized for producing more expressive and also aging worthy wines from the region. This is from the Corcelette parcel within Morgon which has perfect south facing slopes and Cuvee Thaddeus is named for Renaud's nephew who has reputation for energy and exuberance.
Aromas include dark cherries, dark plums, and hints of blackberries and boysenberries. Flavors include red peaches, dark plums, boysenberries, and blueberries. There is a medium to full body, perfect balance and acidity, and a somewhat lush full finish.
Food pairings would include Filet Mignon, New York Steak, short ribs, beef stew, grilled veal, grilled pork, pork tenderloin, pork shoulder, grilled chicken, coq au vin, cassoulet, duck confit, salmon, shrimp, clams, seafood pasta, paella, tapas, Asian beef, pork, and chicken dishes, Indian Tandoori dishes, Mexican beef and pork dishes, Middle Eastern dishes, charcuterie, and mild to medium cheeses.